AYACUCHO

Ayacucho (or Huamanga, its original name) is a well-preserved city from Peru's vice-regal period situated in the Andes south-east of Lima. Its Spanish foundation dates took place in 1539, and many of the existing buildings date from the 16^th and 17^th centuries. The Cathedral, Town Hall and University are all situated around the attractive main square or Parque Mariscal Sucre. In neighbouring streets are dozens of historic churches and monasteries, elegant mansions and other civic buildings, not to mention a lively market and all the bustle of a regional capital and university city.

The city and its surrounding area is particularly rich in artesanía, the wonderfully imaginative creations of folk art that are one of the glories of Peru. Ceramic figures and churches, weaving of designs in alpaca or sheep wool coloured with natural dyes, figures carved in the local white Huamanga stone, and the celebrated Ayacucho retablos, small boxes which once served as travelling altars but now portray nativity scenes and aspects of popular life in the area, from harvesting the prickly pear to hat shops and festive parties. Filigree silver is also produced. Many craftsmen and women work in the Santa Ana district close to the city centre, while others are to be found in nearby villages.

Ayacucho is famous among Peruvians for the piety and splendour of its Holy Week processions, which continue from the Friday in Passion Week (before Palm Sunday) to Easter Sunday, wending through the city from the various churches to the Cathedral and bearing venerated figures of the main figures in the scriptural stories, particularly Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. Numerous other festivities take place throughout the year.

The capital of the Huari (Wari) culture (600-1100AD) is an intriguing archaeological site only 25km north-east from Ayacucho, with the prickly-pear cactus (Opuntia cochinillifera) growing abundantly among the mysterious remains of fine stone mausolea. Some 120 km south of the city is the site of Vilcashuamán, where after the Inca conquest in the 15^th century an important Inca military and religious centre was created on a former Chanka settlement: in the following century the Spaniards surmounted it with the Church of San Juan Bautista. Close to Ayacucho, the plain of La Quinua marks the site of two important battles, while the village is known for its potters.

Practical Information

Ayacucho can be reached by air from Lima and Cuzco, and by a good road climbing up from the Pacific coast near Pisco. Altitude 2,748 metres.