La Vida Loco

by Melissa Kong,
L'Officiel Singapore, November 2011

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Brimming with rich culture, magnificent landscapes, rugged terrain and warm smiles around every corner, Peru is home to some of this planet’s most amazing sights. Whether you’re a foodie or an adventure seeker, there’s always something that suits your fancies in this beautiful South American country.

LIMA

Forget stocking up on designer wear or high street fashion. Peru’s capital, Lima, christened “City of the Kings” by the Spanish (who conquered it in 1535), is a marvellous mix of charming colonial architecture. This also means lots of walking, so gear up in a pair of stylish sneakers.

History buffs can start at Main Square (also known as Plaza Mayor), where buildings like the Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Archbishop’s Palace and City Hall are found. Make a stop at the Cathedral – which was constructed in 1625 but subsequently rebuilt after an earthquake in 1940 – and view its staggering assortment of paintings and religious relics.

For more glories from the past, join a tour of Casa de Aliaga, the oldest mansion in Lima (and many say the Americas). Built in 1535, it served as the residence of Don Jeronimo de Aliaga, one of 13 commanders under Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima (his coffin lies at Lima Cathedral). Today, the Aliagas still reside there, and entry to the home is by pre-arrangement only. Get in touch with luxury travel specialist ARACARI to arrange a meal and visit. www.aracari.com

Lima isn’t known as the gastronomy capital of the Americas for nothing. Its melange of Andean, coastal and even jungle cuisine (featuring wildlife and fruits from the Amazon jungle) promises a feast for the senses, literally. Maize and potatoes (Peru has nearly 3,000 different varieties!) are staples so local meals are usually centred around them.

Did you know, there’s a hybrid of Chinese cuisine known as chifa too? However, don’t expect authentic Chinese dishes at chifa restaurants though, especially since the required ingredients are hard to come by in Peru. A popular example of chifa cuisine is Arroz Chaufa, a Peruvian version of Chinese fried rice. Do also try Tallarin Saltado, which is fried noodles in soya sauce with vegetables and meat.

But if you really want to savour Peruvian delicacies, go on a culinary tour. ARACARI offers different courses to satiate every gourmet palate. Learn from Peru’s top restaurateurs, sample tasting menus in fine eateries, visit the fish market or polish your cooking skills with the pros.

ICA

For a walk on the wild side, head to Paracas (a Quecha word meaning “raining sand”) in Ica, about three-and-half hours by bus from Lima via the Pan American highway. Expect an arid landscape with a coastal desert area surrounding its most famous attraction – Paracas National Reserve, a sanctuary to flora and fauna, along with over 200 species of birds like flamingos, turkey vultures and Humboldt penguins. Hop on a boat trip and catch families of seals basking in the sun.

At the southern end of Ica lies Nazca desert, a UNESCO World Heritage site where 50 sq km of desert floor is adorned with massive etchings of animals and figures. Discovered in 1927, these mysterious drawings are known collectively as the Nazca lines and can be seen in their entirety only from at least 457 m up in the air.

Although their origins are unknown, some have speculated that these drawings were for religious purposes or served as a gigantic astronomic calendar. Thanks to the dry climate and absence of rainfall, the Nazca lines, which go up to 30 cm deep, have been preserved successfully.

CUSCO

Skipping Machu Picchu (“old mountain” in Quecha) in Peru is like going to Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. Before that, however, you’ll land at Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incan empire. Despite the touristy vibe, Cusco remains a heritage hub, with spectacular colonial buildings like Cusco Cathedral and Church of the Company of Christ. In the neighbourhood of San Blas, meanwhile, are some of the city’s best artisans and craftsmen. Exploring the quaint streets (watch out, they’re rather steep) is good exercise and it enables you to become acclimatised to the high altitude.

In nearby Chinchero, which overlooks the Sacred Valley of the Incas, keep your eyes peeled for local women weaving and peddling their craft at the Sunday market. The workmanship is fabulous, so be sure to grab a colourful poncho as a souvenir.

The Sacred Valley or Urubamba Valley, an hour’s drive from Cusco, is worth a visitfor its spectacular scenery too. Thanks to fertile soil and favourable weather conditions, the area provides Cusco with most of the latter’s agricultural supplies like maize and potatoes.

From the Sacred Valley, a train takes you up to the breathtaking ruins of Machu Picchu, hailed among the new Seven Wonders of the World. Incidentally, this year marks the centenary of its discovery (American explorer Hiram Bingham unveiled the lost city in July 1911). Some believed it was built in the 15th century as a religious fortress for Incan priests and priestesses while others concluded that it was meant to be an aristocratic settlement. Whichever you subscribe to, the structure features the excellent stonework of the Incas, who cut and fitted huge boulders together perfectly sans assistance from modern machinery. Archaeologists were also amazed at how they heaved such large stones up the mountainous terrain to build the temples, royal quarters, tombs and even two-storied dwellings.

Plenty has been written about it but the complete experience of wonder and mystery can only be satisfied by a personal visit. Note, however, that it requires a full day to travel up the mountain, so it’s best to stay the night at Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (the only hotel next to the ruins). This allows you to head to Machu Picchu before the busloads of tourists arrive, so you have more time to explore the site.

PUNO

From Cusco, take a plane, bus or train to the adjacent region of Puno, namely to Lake Titicaca, located on the border of Peru and Bolivia. While it’s faster to fly there (in as little as 45 minutes), you may prefer a more leisurely journey on the Andean Explorer luxury train. www.perurail.com The 10-hour journey takes you through stunning vistas of the Andean highlands, over rolling plains, gushing rivers and remote villages. You’ll go over the famous Altiplano (“high plains” in Spanish) on the Andes and head up to La Raya – at 4,321 m above sea level, it is the highest point of the trip. Make sure you’re nicely wrapped up as it can get very chilly here.

When you pull in to Puno, you’ll be greeted by the awe-inspiring cobalt sheen of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake. It also happens to be a sacred lake to the Incas as that’s where they believed the first Inca king, Manco Capac, was born. The locals use traditional totora-reed boats to navigate the lake although these are less hardy than wooden boats. The former last only eight months while the latter variety last up to eight years. But it is this sense of tradition that keeps the Incan spirit very much alive here in Puno.

Over 40 floating reed islands on the lake are home to the Uros Indians, said to be the descendants of the Incas. Take a totora-reed boat ride to one of these islands and let the inhabitants show you around their homes (essentially huts on reed platforms). Some will even allow you to spend the night in their homes if you’re interested to immerse yourself in the Incan lifestyle.