the Aracari Blog

This has been an incredible journey. Not necessarily because of the destination, but more because of the unconditional dedicated care of our guide, Luis Diaz, and driver Henry Achahui in Peru. The contracting Agency in this case was Aracari. We were in the hands of two unique individuals, brilliant in their knowledge and experience, and caring in their own way. On Tuesday, July 11, we arrived in the town of Urubamba after a day of extensive visits only after having been advised that the next day could become problematic, Peru would undergo a general strike on the day… A general strike in Peru is not supposed to be violent, but the characteristics are that the masses would be on the street, and the roads would be blocked at 100m intervals with huge stones and boulders, <I guess that after 600 years the Incas are still enamored with their-building-stones>… On Wednesday-morning at 9am we were picked up by Henry and Luis to visit the town of Chinchero and the salt mines of Maras…We hadn’t travelled more than a couple of hundred meters on the main road when trouble started. Henry carefully brought the car to a halt a couple of blocks in-front of a heavily blocked intersection and screaming masses. After a careful evaluation of the situation, we decided to return to the hotel. The crowd, noticing our retreat, stepped up the charge, and it was only that 150 horsepower outran 150 Incas (Quechuans); otherwise it would have become ugly. Already at the hotel we noticed the grim atmosphere. It became apparent that Henry and Luis were the only driver/guide team there, and all the other guests were left to fend for themselves; advised to ‘stay put’ for the day. Not the guests of Henry and Luis. Luis proposed a brisk walk through the mountains, on a remote path which would take us to the town square where the protest-meeting were going to be held. Along the way, in more than one occasion, we were almost overrun, by (pardon the pun) running strikers. Just stepping out of their way, however, it remained peaceful at times. After a beautiful excursion, Luis and Henry safely led us to the middle of Plaza Mayor, totally covered by protesters and strikers. If only they knew that we were the ones they had charged earlier. Nonetheless, we would not have wanted to miss this for anything, and, at no moment did we feel as if we were in danger. What a way to start a morning… Walking on the way back to the hotel we helped the Police remove the rocks on the street, to no avail. In no time were they put back in multiples by people hiding behind fences and bushes. We decided to “take a break”, retreat to the hotel and evaluate the situation later that afternoon… Later in the day, although the rocks remained scattered on the road, we thought it a good idea to hand remove only half of the rocks at each blockage…Once on the right side, the next left. Like this, from a distance, it seemed as I the road was still blocked at intervals. Then we made a dash for it, taking a chance in a brief car-ride, zigzagging along the way as if we were in a BMW training-course, to get to the foot of the mountain below the Maras salt-mines…with Henry at the controls it was a “piece of cake”… After negotiating a long and steep, but not so difficult climbing-path, we arrived at the mines. Luis’ guidance was invaluable here. And the view…incredible!!!! I felt like Livingstone arriving at Victoria Falls, or Bingham at Machu Picchu … Not a soul in sight only the sound of the wind and the ‘grandesse’ of 700 years-old mines, still gloriously intact, and exploited by hand and feet till the day of today. The people should strike more often. The walk down the mountain was as easy as they come. With Henry still masterfully at the wheels, we safety got back at the hotel just before sunset, only to reflect on a day unequalled in my fifty years of travel.