The Question:

Which is the most hotly anticipated hotel opening in Cusco next year?

The Answer:

The most hotly anticipated hotel in Cusco, due to open in June 2012, Palacio Nazarenas is set to raise the bar for accommodation in Peru higher still. This gorgeous hotel, a colonial convent refurbished by Orient-Express, will be a refined and fashionable property featuring 55 suites lavished in the most luxurious décor and amenities.

“Nazarenas” is the name adorned upon the hotel because it is located in a former convent of nuns of the same name – beaterio de Las Nazarenas. The property was constructed in the late 17th century for a congregation of women who bore the name of Jesus of Nazareth. Orient-Express has undertaken an extensive restoration project on the building, and the property will make full use of original features such as wall paintings and frescoes.

Now, considering that the hotel is located right next door to Orient-Express’ other flagship hotel, Monasterio, it could certainly be considered a challenge to distinguish Palacio Nazarenas from one of the best hotels in South America. Yet Orient-Express has managed this brilliantly, and the all-suite hotel will be completely unique in style and atmosphere.

The décor is all being sourced from within Peru, so you can expect the like of fine Pima cotton, exquisite Andean textiles and hand carved wooden furniture in abundance. Traditional Peruvian design and techniques will run throughout the hotel, taking inspiration from Inca and Colonial styles alike, as well as the convergence between the two.

The spa has been designed as an indulgent place to relax, again reflecting both Inca and colonial styles in Cusco. It will incorporate themes of ancient rituals of Andean cultures and will be adorned with plants and running water to create an authentic natural atmosphere. There will be no menu, and guests will be able to define their own personalised treatments.

As would be expected, the service at Palacio Nazarenas will be top notch, with personal attention provided by a concierge and butler. Guests will have a pre-loaded iPad with restaurant and spa options, pillow menu, city guide and much more.

All of these features ensure that Aracari guests will be able to choose according to their tastes and preference when it comes to choosing between Monasterio and Palacio Nazarenas, as well as the many other stunning options for hotels in Cusco.

Orient-Express has a wonderful blog revealing new things about the palace every week. Here you can follow the exciting story of a new hotel being launched, and find out about everything from stories behind historic rooms in the building to what type of cutlery they’re thinking of using in the restaurant.

There are contributions from the key protagonists who are developing the hotel: managers, designers and architects all have their say. We strongly encourage you to check it out: http://palacionazarenas.com/ (it certainly helped to write this article!)

photos by Martin

On September 23rd 1996 Marisol Mosquera started Aracari Travel with the vision of designing hand-crafted itineraries for those discerning travellers who wanted to explore Peru in comfort and style.

Precisely 15 years later and the company is recognised as one of Peru’s finest tour operators, with awards from Conde Nast Traveler magazine and Travel + Leisure just a few of the plaudits that have been received over the years.

Naturally this landmark called for a big party. And on such an important occasion we considered it appropriate that the event should be hosted by none other than our close friend Naguib Ciurlizza in his exquisite property on the outskirts of Lima.

“We want to celebrate by giving you all a taste of what our guests experience” Marisol toasted assembled dignitaries from all walks of Peruvian travel; specialist guides, tour operators and close friends alike who had joined the Aracari staff in converging upon Naguib’s delightful house and garden for lunch and drinks.

Her touching note set the scene for a most relaxing afternoon. This stared with a tour of the garden, an in depth look at the kaleidoscope of plants that Naguib has given beloved care and attention to, which on this day were basking in the early spring sunshine. This was followed by a peek at some of his delightful art collection, one of the best in Peru. The whole affair was accompanied by refreshing house cocktails.

Lunch – most eagerly anticipated given that Naguib is an expert chef – consisted of a terrific and bountiful buffet of Peruvian cuisine. This featured the likes of causa (layered potatoes and yellow chilli pepper filled with ceviche of sole and garnished with lashings of lime juice), shambar (a rich northern Peruvian stew containing beans, meat and a variety of seasonings) and tamales (steamed corn dough wrapped in banana leaves) all prepared in traditional styles yet with the added flourish and panache of Naguib’s masterful hand. All the while we were serenaded by the dulcet tones of local criollo musicians.

And dessert only embellished upon his master class, a tower of truffles, sweets and candies enough to make even those with the sweetest of teeth ask themselves whether a plateful of delights would a good idea. Needless to say, it was.

As the sun began to go down it was time to say goodbyes and depart. Though this celebration was not so much a farewell, it should be said, as a taste of things to come.

While in the Cusco region, I took the opportunity to realise the Lodge-to-Lodge Salkantay trek, a fantastic 6 day trek to Machu Picchu that sees partakers staying each night at sumptuous luxury lodges in between walking along a stunning route that passes beneath the snow covered peak of Salkantay amongst other marvels. You can find out more here.

Day 1:

Published Thursday 5th May

We started out from Cusco in the morning and headed toward the town of Mollepata. Along the route we took the opportunity to have a look at the protagonist of this trek; Apu Salkantay.

We also stopped for a look at the Inca ruins of Tarawasi, an interesting complex situated in a fertile valley. It is believed that this may have been a trading post between the highlands of Cusco and lower lands towards the coast. The usual arrangement of excellent stone masonry was aplenty.

After a quick lunch at Mollepata, we made one further road journey before beginning the trek. And todays trek was a good warm up! A nice, level path … not too steep … to acclimatise to walking at high altitude. All along the way we got closer and closer to the Humantay Glacier, beneath which the first lodge is located. The glacier … which has purportedly significantly receded in the last few decades … provides a fantastic view for the 3-4 hours of trekking today.

As we approached the first lodge, suddenly the tremendous peak of Salkantay also made its appearance. It was a little clouded today but still incredible in the sparkling bright sunlight.

Salkantay Lodge & Adventure Resort (3,850m / 12,700ft asl)

Arriving at the lodge, and expectations were exceeded. This is a spectacular achievement, a luxury hotel in the midst of the Andes. Our guide Miguel told us of the great effort that had been made to construct the four lodges, and at this altitude, with the sheer attention to detail and meticulous planning that must have been poured into this project, this can be understood.

The bedrooms are very comfortable with hot water and ample heating. The lodge is expansive, with winding corridors leading between pockets of comfy seating to chat with friends and fellow travellers including a DVD screening room. There is a hot drinks station, a well stocked bar, and a shop for last minute essentials for the rest of the trek, as well as tasteful souveniers.

The location is a treat in itself: Humantay and Salkantay are both visible from all of the bedrooms, and the restaurant and lobby provide commanding views of both. And the restaurant has excellent food, there is a permanent staff at this lodge, although the chef will travel with us to each of the lodges as he knows the preferences of each guest. Tonight we hacream of pumpkin soup followed by trout and mashed potatoes and rounded off with crema de aguaymanto…

All in all an excellent start, hope I can connect again tomorrow for further musings…

Day 2:

Published Friday 6th May

Today, after waking up to the orange rays of the sunrise gleaming off the snow capped face of Salkantay, I enjoyed an excellent buffet breakfast, which included a selection of cold meats and cheeses, fresh yoghurt, cereals, orange juice, papaya juice, scrambled eggs with bacon and cheese.

After said breakfast, we began the days hiking. Rather than the usual Salkantay route, this entailed getting even closer to Humantay glacier to reach to a glacial lake before returning to spend a second night at the Salkantay Adventure Lodge. Our guide Miguel explained to us that this was a good practice hike in preparation for tomorrow, which sees us cross a high pass of 15,000 feet (4,600m). Likewise, should anybody still be feeling the effects of high altitude, they could opt for resting this day and building energy for tomorrows trek, as was the case with one person on our group.

We started out from the lodge towards the glacier, a two hour uphill hike. Along the way Miguel showed us some native plants and explained the different uses that these have in local communities, everything from mending ailments to seasoning meats. We also had the delight of spotting an Andean condor high in the sky above, a little too far for photos unfortunately.

The walk took us through rural pastures populated by cows curious about our presence. Miguel told us that at these high altitudes potatoes can still be grown, and that locals from down the valley sojourn here for three weeks a year at harvest time.

As we got higher we reached a flat area before one final steep climb to reach the lake. And it was spectacular; the water was glistening blue from the Andean sky with the white reflection of the looming glacier above. Very few trekkers ever get to see this, most race off on the standard route without giving thought to this spectacle.

For those who like to submerge themselves in bitterly freezing cold water at 14,000 feet above sea level, this is also an opportunity, that I took.

No word that I can use on the Aracari blog can describe this feeling…

After marvelling over the lake for half an hour so, embellished by the odd avalanche, we returned to the lodge for a delicious lunch: quinoa with olives, pecans and cheese for starters, the Peruvian classic Lomo Saltado for entree and fruit for afterwards, everything prepared and presented by the local staff to the highest quality. Miguel told us that all of the staff here hail from the local area.

The rest of the afternoon was at our leisure, and later on I took the chance to dip into the rather smart looking Jacuzzi, a polar opposite to my earlier swim.

In the evening, we were treated to a history lesson from Miguel, as well as a Pisco Sour demonstration.

After lights out (the generator is turned off at 11) I am going to look at the stars, which look brilliant up here! Then I’d better sleep before tomorrow’s mission.

Day 3:

Saturday 7th May

The big day! We started walking early in the morning, about 7am, and began climbing towards Salkantay. As we crossed through the grassy fields and past winding rivers, the porters passed us with our luggage, before we climbed higher, the lodge slowly turning to the size of a pin head in the valley far below. There were few other people about; most of the other trekkers had began far earlier in the morning as this day on the camping route is usually much longer.

As we got higher, the mountains began to open up around us, with high peaks in every direction. The temperature started to drop considerably and the gloves and hat came out. We stopped for a snack beside a high lake, no swimming this time.

After a break we made the final push to the pass. Salkantay by this point was looming massive beside us. The peak was covered with clouds sweeping past from the other side of the pass, but every now and again they would clear to give us a view of the pristine snow and ice above us.

And just after midday we finally reached the highest pass on the trek, 4,600 metres above sea level! There were cairns everywhere, a sign of the many people who have embarked on the Salkantay route, and I couldn’t resist building my own one. We rested for a while at the top with the wind rushing past admiring the constantly altering views of Salkantay, before beginning the descent.

Within a few minutes of starting the journey downhill we realised that the landscape was changing dramatically. On this side of the pass green valleys appeared far below us, with our immediate surroundings marked by scattered granite which reminded me very much of the mountains at home on the Isle of Arran in Scotland.

After an hour of walking we reached the lunch tent. We stopped to enjoy a hot meal, corn soup followed by pasta with mushroom and tomato sauce and a dessert of pear in wine, a delicacy in these environs. We were then introduced to the chef who would accompany us for the whole trip.

We continued to walk downhill after lunch, with glaciers looming above us on both sides of the valley which was becoming increasingly green ahead of us.

Huayra Lodge (3,800m/12,600 ft)

We shortly arrived at the second lodge, Huayra, which was beautifully perched right above the point where the valley becomes densely vegetated with trees and plants.

This lodge was much smaller than the base lodge, but this was indeed something of an asset. The whole place felt much cosier and home like. This was partly helped by the decorations as well, bright and authentic Andean textiles in warm colours . Although the lodge had a definite similar uniformity in its style and feel to Soraypampa – brightly coloured paint (this time orange instead of red), sleek furnishings – certain aspects of the decor and materials used made this feel more like a mountain lodge in the traditional sense, particularly the large slabs of granite used to build the walls and the cosily arranged living room.

By this point the clouds had persisted and so we did not see the view of Salkantay that can usually be enjoyed from Huayra enjoys, but the presence of the mountains and views to the valley below remained impressive.

In the evening we had a delicious dinner – leek soup followed by steak with potato gratin and apple pie for dessert – before Miguel gave us an interesting talk on Qoyllur Rit’i festival and the convergence between native religion and Catholicism.

Day 4:

Sunday 8th May

After an early start and the usual ample buffet breakfast we continued to descend into more tropical climbs for what would be a much shorter day of walking, only about 3 to 4 hours. The clouds had cleared and we were treated to spectacular views of the very ground where we had been traversing the previous day, and towards Salkantay.

We were rather sad to leave the second lodge so quickly, it had been a welcome refuge after the difficult trekking yesterday and we could have easily spent the day relaxing there. Nevertheless, we ventured onwards to the next stage of the trek, continuing downwards into the green Salkantay valley.

Along the way more and more aspects of the more humid environment showed face: flowers, orchids, bamboo, hummingbirds and thick vegetation were all accompanied by the sound of birds, and, as Miguel informed us, tiny black and brown frogs that inhabit the region. There were also a great deal more mosquitos calling for a splash of repellent. We passed more and more settlements on the way down, tiny rural villages populated by no more than scurrying chickens and dogs at this time of day.

The zone we were passing through is in fact the very point where the Andes mountains meet the Amazon rainforest. In these high climbs of the jungle there is nothing of the sweltering heat and humidity of the deep jungle, but it is the beginning of trees, thick vegetation and a great wealth of biodiversity and wildlife that continues right the way to Brazil’s atlantic coast. It was a dramatic change, from the harsh, barren landscapes that we had passed the day previously, to the sight of the treetops, and the croaking, buzzing and screeching of busy animals all around. To walk into the start of the Amazon was a real privilege, one that I’ll never forget.

Colpa Lodge (2,800m/9,200 ft)

We continued downwards, closer and closer to the Salkantay river before eventually crossing it, and making one final steep 10 minute climb to the third lodge, Colpa. This was perched upon a grassy knoll with a view over a nearby village – at this point full of campers from both Salkantay and Choquequirao, as well as views down to the convergence between the Salkantay, Chalan and Totora Rivers. We sat in the wooden sunchairs outside admiring this scene, before heading indoors for a hot shower.

Colpa lodge was again slightly different in style to the previous two lodges. As well as having a much longer structure, it, too, had its own distinct colour scheme, this time of green, as well as decorations more akin to Andean folklore and celebration of festivals. The bedroom was again very comfortable, with a clean bathroom, comfortable mattresses and soft linens.

Shortly afterwards, we were treated to an Andean barbecue demonstration, or “Pachamanca”. This technique, common since pre-Inca times, consists of burying animals such as guinea pig, chicken and beef along with vegetables, plantains and fava beans under red hot rocks of dirt that have been heated up above a fire.

The result we enjoyed in the lodge, a buffet of succulent meat and roasted vegetables accompanied by chilli sauce and various other condiments.

In line with the theme of the lodge’s decoration, this evenings talk from Miguel concerned the celebration of the Virgen del Carmen festival at Paucartambo. This is a famous street party on the 16th of July which attracts thousands of people from across Peru with dancers, music and colour in ample supply. Examples of the fantastic masks that feature prominently in this festival are pasted across one of the walls of the lodge.

Perhaps the biggest difference with this lodge compared to the others was its jacuzzi, this was much larger and with a fantastic view of the lush green hills surrounding the lodge. We relaxed out there in the evening, watching the stars above and enjoying the fresh yet tropical ambiance, before heading off to sleep.

Day 5:

Monday 9th May

After breakfast we began our journey to the fourth and final lodge. We walked in a loop to the village that we had seen from the lodge, and walked past the lodge from the other side of the valley, giving us a view with a fantastic perspective of where the lodge was located, on a grassy knoll with the Salkantay glacier still present in the background.

We passed through the village and joined a dirt track that took us further downwards along the river. By this time we were surrounded by tree covered hills on every side, the harsh mountainous terrain confined to the distant peaks poking out into our view every now and again. There were also many large settlements, principally concerned with agriculture and cultivation of tropical produce which thrives in the area.

After a few hours walk it was necessary to jump aboard a minibus; it had been decided that this was favourable to travel along stretch of road firstly to give more time to spend at the last lodge and secondly because there wasn’t much more change in the scenery .. this could have been a boring walk that would see us arrive at the lodge only in the late afternoon.

The bus journey (which was more hair-raisingly exhilarating than boring) took us to within half an hour of the fourth lodge. Remarkably, the final stretch of walk was along a section of original Inca trail, the “llactapata Inca trail”, another reason for travelling by car to here.

Miguel informed us that this part of the Inca Trail was thought to have been used to travel to Vilcabamba, the last refuge of the Incas from the Spanish conquest. It had been coveted by locals who used the land to grow coffee and other produce, but as soon as the Peruvian government learned of it it became protected under law and restoration work began.

The trail took us through subsiding coffee plantations as well as other tropical fruits such as Lucuma, Granadillas, bananas, Yuccas and juicy avocados. This was a mark of the now very dense high rainforest environment into which we had entered.

Lucma Lodge (2,100m/6,900 ft)

We arrived at the final lodge, Lucma lodge, which was another very luxurious and comfortable lodge. This time the decorations mimicked the local environment; there were tall plants indoors, large photos and artwork of local wildlife and fittings such as mirrors and lampshades with motifs of jungle plants and such like. It was a very comfortable lodge, perhaps most of all because of the very favourable environment enjoyed in the high rainforest.

Very Fresh Espresso

After lunch and a rest, at around four o’clock, we visited a nearby coffee farmer for a taste of some local coffee. We were very delighted to watch the entire process of this kind gentlemen preparing us an espresso from dried bean to cup.

He started with a batch of coffee beans that had been dried outdoors in the sunshine as is the usual method of preparing the inside of a coffee bean, which comes from the plant somewhat sweet and sticky.

He took these beans and roasted them in a cast iron pan for 15 minutes while stirring constantly to ensure that no burning would occur. In the meantime his resident guinea pigs scurried about the floor eating a pile of leaves he had given them.

After the beans were roasted to the dark brown colour that is rather more familiar to those of us from Europe or North America,he tipped them into his hand operated coffee grinder and ground them up.

After passing hot water through the coffee it was ready to serve to us in what I can only assume were his finest espresso cups.

The result: the freshest cup of espresso I have ever tasted, and probably the most organic. He also sold it to us so that we could take some home. By this time the Guinea Pigs had made very short work of their meal.

In the evening nature served us up a symbolic reminder of just how remarkably the terrain had transformed during this walk: the sun set glowing orange over the dense tropical forest, illuminating a now very distant snow covered peak.

We enjoyed another excellent dinner and warded off the organic caffeine rush before heading off to sleep.

Day 6:

Tuesday 10th May

I woke in the middle of night to the sound of thundering rain, with the odd burst of thunder rattling away in the distance. Thankfully by the morning this had subsided, and this in fact gave us much more preferable weather for the day ahead.

This was the final day for me, and it promised a real treat – a rarely seen view of Machu Picchu from the ruins of Lllactapata.

We continued along the Inca trail, which led us up for 2 and a half hours to 9000 feet, the cool and cloudy weather a welcome relief from what could have been a sweltering day of walking. There were some interesting sections of the trail where streams were channelled between rocks to avoid the path from flooding. This could also have been used to provide welcome refreshment for Inca royalty who would have used the trail to travel to Vilcabamba.

We walked through forest with views over the valley, this morning filled with mist, giving the surreal effect of being above clouds. We then reached the summit, which was buried by trees. Here we bumped in to many other groups of trekkers than on any other days, probably given that we were now very close to Machu Picchu.

We continued downhill 20 minutes to the ruin of Llactapata from where the cloud clung close to the side of the hill. “Machu Picchu is over there somewhere” Miguel told us, it didn’t look much like we would get lucky with the weather, and we began to tour the complex of Llactapata, which consists of the ruins of many buildings and passages overgrown with thick foliage.

Of course the cloud cleared, and we all ran back to the ledge to see Machu Picchu appear in the distance. I had visited the site twice before, but this gave a completely new perspective of where the Inca ruin was situated in respect to the surrounding hills and mountains. Machu Picchu Mountain stood tall ahead of us, while we could also see Huayna Picchu behind the ruins and countless other hills running off into the distance as far as the eye can see.

The ruins themselves looked minuscule and barely discernible, but this isn’t the real beauty of this view. What is impressive about this unique perspective is that it shows you just exactly where Machu Picchu is and how remarkable it is that this endearingly complex city was built in terrain seemingly unmanageable by humans: steep hills covered with thick tropical shrubs. What is entirely clear is just exactly why it took so long for the site to be uncovered by Europeans.

All of this is an aside from the importance of Llactapata as a site. It has been suggested by Hugh Thomson and Gary Zeigler that this complex of about ten buildings was of great importance for astronomical observations, while it is also purported that it perhaps has a special connection with Machu Picchu due to the vantage point that it has over the city, and due to sunlight lining up on certain points of the two ruins. Hugh Thomson’s book Cochineal Red discusses the experience of excavating of the site in some fascinating detail.

The clouds continued to pass through the Santa Teresa valley and we went on our way downhill again for about 10 minutes to lunch at a local restaurant. The venue was a bit on the rustic side, but not even the mighty Orient Express can boast a location to sit down and eat lunch with a view of Machu Picchu. The owner of this plot has had many approaches to buy his land, but he continues to hold on to it and serve the many trekkers who now venture this route not only with tasty meals, but with a campsite. And the lunch was not bad, avocado for starters, wild trout for seconds and a Tamarillo (tree tomato) jelly for dessert.

Which just left us with the final descent to the train station, a rather difficult muddy downhill slope for an hour and a half with beautiful views of the valley. Walking sticks recommended.

We celebrated the completion of the trek with a couple of beers at the train station and much recounting of the last 6 days. A 40 minute ride to Aguas Calientes on the Vistadome and there was just time for me to say my goodbyes to the rest of the group. No Machu Picchu visit for me this time (three times could perhaps be considered overkill for a non guide), I left my new friends to enjoy this World Wonder for their first time the following day as I went on my merry way back to the Sacred Valley and the next stage of the inspection trip: the 5 day Ausangate lodge-to-lodge trek.

Everyone on the Aracari team is absolutely proud to have put together such a memorable trip and are thrilled that everyone enjoyed it so much.

To begin a round-up of the comments, and in very high praise, guest Mr. Martin said

Thank you so much for organising such an extraordinary trip. Peru is an amazing country, but the quality of your services made it spectacular.

I cannot remember ever visiting a country where everything went so smoothly. If there were hiccups, we never saw them.

From the amazing hotels to the best guides I have ever had, particularly Francis and Fernando, it was perfect. I never thought any trip would deserve a 100 percent perfect rating, but yours did, so thank you so much. And an extraordinary group of fellow travellers was the icing on the cake!

Thanks very much for that! In a similar vein, Mrs Vickovic said:

Thank you so much.

Marc and I are still full of strong impressions. Ever since we came back we’ve been looking at the photos, arranging them, and in a way, reliving  this wonderful trip.

It is such a pleasure  going through the photos you made … some of them I am going to stick to the fridge for personal reasons… I am looking forward to everyone else’s photos as well.

Thank you! Mrs Salam, meanwhile, said:

Thank you for organising a wonderful trip – just the right combination of luxury, effort, visual enjoyment, erudition and fun – not to mention food and pisco sour. I can imagine the effort and thinking that must have gone into creating this combination?? Thank you to my fellow travellers for being such good company.

Thanks Mrs. Salam! Mrs. Wong Tan, travelling all the way from Singapore, told us

After spending 2 days in the air and in transit, I found myself studying the globe in my study, trying to figure out a shorter route to South America.

It was a memorable trip, made even more enjoyable by the wonderful company.

Thanks to you, Mrs. Wong Tan! In addition to these kind words, Mrs. Bergstedt said

Peru was magical, the tour was amazing, but it was my moments with each of you {the group} that will burn strongest in my heart.

Thank you Marisol to you and your team for showing us the soul of Peru.  John thank you for educating us on the Inca’s unique history.   And to all my fellow travelers a big GRACIAS

Thanks so much! Mr Dale told us in a similar manner that

I wanted to add my voice to the symphony of joy {expressed by the group}.  Thanks to everybody, at Aracari, and to the group for adding such wonderful texture to the experience.

I hope that the joy and good cheer last forever.

Here’s to that! Thanks! Mrs Tedesco added these kind words:

What an amazing trip and a unique experience we {the group} have all shared together. I think we can agree that the connected group dynamic does not happen very often.

Getting back into my rhythm at home has not been a bit challenging. I think I may type up an itinerary at night so i have something to follow the next day…Sans the beautiful rolled paper and bright ribbon.

Thank you so much, Marisol, and your staff for making this trip so memorable. I’m working on the photos this weekend and hope to have them up on the site within the next day or so. If any of you have a facebook account, check out the Aracari Page. There’s photos posted.

Thanks very much! Mrs Gil. and Mr. Tapia expressed the following sentiments (translated from Spanish):

We started as a group of people who had simply gathered at the same place to start a journey together. Nobody knew anybody.

After one week of sharing unforgettable experiences and unique moments,  we started to call each other by our first names,  exhange photos, addresses, conversations, in a very moving way and sharing heartfelt experiences.

After this trip delicately organised by Marisol, with sensitivity in every detail, neither one of us will ever feel the same, because already within every one of us, every friend has made a special place for the memories of Machu Picchu.

Thanks to everyone for every minute.

Muchas gracias! And finally, Mr. and Mrs. Gordon told us

We would like to thank you very much indeed for all you did for us during our recent trip to Peru.  We are both particularly grateful to you and for your wonderful staff at Aracari in Cuzco, not to mention Raul in Lima for the help you all extended to us after Douglas had that awful fall.  We were both extremely touched by all the assistance and kindness everyone extended.  The signed hat still brings a lump to our throats.

Thank you all once again and you especially, Marisol.

Thanks to you, and thanks to everybody who came on the trip, this high calibre of feedback brings us very much satisfaction and keeps us motivated for producing more top class experiences of this ilk. It was a privilege to show you all the best of Peru and to facilitate  all of the marvellous experiences you had together.

Our partners Delfin Amazon Cruises and Aqua Expeditions both have new boats on offer. Delfin have refurbished their original boat the Delfin I to reach an even higher standard of luxury that perhaps even surpasses that of their flagship Delfin II. Aqua Expeditions, meanwhile, are launching the second ship in their fleet, the ultra-modern MV Aria, to complement the MV Aqua.

Delfin I (began operation in December 2010)

The new look Delfin I certainly has taken on a very different attire; this has been fully refurbished in 2010 to afford even more spacious suites than before, with 2 oversize Deluxe Suites on the main deck and 2 Master Suites on the Second Deck. The new space is very apparent from the offset; extra hulls have been added to support a much wider deck.

The small number of suites compared to Delfin II, MV Aqua and MV Aria ensure that Delfin I can provide the most exclusive and private cruise on the Amazon. With 4 suites and room for just 8 guests, this ensures that passengers can enjoy an intimate atmosphere with the emphasis being on personal attention.

And the suites are delightful; our friends Lissy and Aldo have added beautiful touches and attention to detail at every turn, with understated elegance reflecting the natural world into which the boat thrusts itself. They all have 180° Panoramic windows from floor to ceiling, a kingsize bed (or twins), mini bar, seating area and air conditioning, also boasting a 320ft square terrace. The two deluxe suites offer a little more space than the master suites (360ft square compared to 340) as well as having their own Jacuzzis. Everything is done here in excellent taste in a way that authentically blends in with the Amazon.

Delfin are also renowned for the exquisite cuisine served onboard their boats, and excellent Cuisine once again plays an important part in the Delfin I experience.  Chefs Isaac Saavedra y Raúl Rodriguez have a constantly rotating menu based on which ingredients are available and which are freshest. They incorporate many ingredients fresh form the rainforest.

MV Aria –Launching April 24th 2011

In contrast to the rustic elegance of Delfin I, the MV Aria will be a very grand affair when it launches next month. This 147-long whopper of a cruise ship has been custom built by architect Jordi Puig to provide an extremely high level of modern comfort and ample amenities to guests.

The MV Aria (Digital mock-up)

A total of 32 passengers can be accommodated for on the sophisticated Aria, and those who partake in a luxury cruise can enjoy the plush lounge, an outdoor Jacuzzi, and even an exercise room.

MV Aria lounge (Digital mock-up)

There are no less than 16 oversize design suites on offer, all 240ft square. These include sitting areas, air conditioning and panoramic views of the Amazon, providing plentiful comfort to guests. 4 of these suites can be interconnected to accommodate for families.

MV Aria dining room (Digital mock-up)

Gastronomy-wise, Lima chef Pedro Miguel Shiaffano draws chiefly on Peruvian influences with an international tinge to ensure that fine-dining is on a par with some top-end restaurants. The exquisite gourmet cuisine is also paired with the finest South American wines.

The Verdict

Both new ships are set to take the Amazon luxury cruise scene by storm (hopefully not literally!). Both boats have their advantages; the Delfin I offers a more tranquil, personalised experience while the Aria offers complete luxury and several modern amenities to guests.

Below we have drawn up a table highlighting the characteristics of each of our 4 preferred luxury Amazon cruises along with fixed departure days throughout 2011. They all offer fixed departures for 3 and 4 night cruises throughout the year, with Aqua and Aria also offering fixed departures for 7 nights.

Vessel Name	Max. Guest Capacity	Comments	Fixed Departures			Prices starting from*
			4D/3N	5D/4N	8D/7N
Delfin I	8	Authentic, Personalised	Mondays	Thursdays	-	$3000
Delfin II	28	Authentic, luxury	Sundays	Wednesdays	-	$1989
MV Aqua	24	Modern, luxury	Saturdays	Tuesdays	Saturdays	$2400
MV Aria	32	Modern, deluxe	Fridays	Mondays	Fridays	$2550

*Prices are per person based on two people sharing a cabin on a 4D/3N cruise.

If any of these 4 wonderful luxury Amazon cruises sound like your cup of tea, contact us today to book as a part of your hand-tailored Peru luxury travel package.

In such an exciting year for Peru luxury travel, it’s time for Aracari to give our rundown of what hot new hotels are up-and-coming, in the pipeline and on the cards.

There is something of a hotel boom going on at the moment as this recent article from Hotel News Now has outlined, the perfect opportunity for Aracari – always first to be “in the know” – to give our lowdown of what we think will be favourites amongst our guests and discerning travellers.

We have squeezed our grapevine dry to bring you news on the following luxury Peru hotels, those of which we think will be the biggest hits. We have also used our best judgement and insight to give an indication of what we feel to be the most accurate timing for their respective openings. Enjoy!

Westin Lima – Complete – Confirmed opening May 2011

Digital mock-up of Westin Lima

Anyone in Lima wondering what that shimmering tower of glass evaporating into the sky is, it’s the new Westin Lima. The second Westin to open in South America is expected to be one of the finest luxury hotels in the country for leisure and corporate travellers. It will boast uber-modern facilities, including an indulgent spa complete with indoor pool and the largest convention centre in the country, all fitted with state-of-the-art technology. The hotel is just minutes away from restaurants, art galleries, companies’ headquarters, banks, embassies and shops in San Isidro.  A total of 301 rooms will feature including a presidential suite, 16 executive suites, 12 junior suites and 7 rooms for the disabled. Full steam ahead for May!

Hotel Barranco – Project Stage – Expected opening 2012

Digital mock-up of Hotel Barranco

The laid-back and elegant boulevard Saenz Peña is gearing up for the furore that will surround the opening of Hotel Barranco. This boutique hotel will be located in a refurbished historic mansion in the heart of Lima’s bohemian seaside neighbourhood of Barranco. The historic building will feature 18 suites, a private spa and a signature restaurant by Rafael Osterling, one of Peru’s internationally recognised chefs and owner of two of our favourite restaurants Rafael and El Mercado where he often gets involved as head chef.

Saenz Peña Boulevard in Barranco

The hotel sits in the heart of Barranco, sharing Saenz Peña boulevard with art galleries, trendy boutiques, luxury apartments and a diplomatic residence.  For private events and special viewings, the hotel will be able to connect with its neighbour, Lima´s leading art gallery – and our particular favourite – Lucia de la Puente.

Las Nazarenas –  Under Construction –  Expected Opening First half of 2012

Despite somewhat sporadic and confusing bursts of information from Orient Express, we have ascertained that their new offering Las Nazarenas will most likely open in the first half of 2012. It will be located in a convent of nuns of the same name –beaterio de Las Nazarenas, a block or so away from the Plaza de Armas of Cusco. This building was built in the late seventeenth century for a congregation of women who bore the most holy name of Jesus of Nazareth. Charming original features of the property include an internal courtyard with a beautiful fountain.

Under Construction – Las Nazerenas (source)

Orient Express have wanted to extend their other hotel Monasterio del Cusco – which is located right next door in Seminario de San Antonio Abad – to have exquisite suites but they found it difficult to get the permission due to their plan to build underground tunnels to connect the two properties. So they have decided, instead, to open a brand new hotel, which will chiefly feature suites funnily enough.

Costing a reported 14 million dollars to build, Las Nazarenas will be of an even higher standard than the opulent Monasterio and other 5 star hotels in both décor and the overall experience. Quite simply put, it will be divine and sublime with 56 wonderfully appointed luxury rooms and suites, a spa with five massage rooms, a gym, a relaxation room, hairdresser, restaurant, heated pool and business facilities. Yes please!

Las Arenas de Mancora – Under Construction – Likely opening March 2012

Now, we shouldn’t really be telling you this , but we heard on the grapevine that Las Arenas del Mancora is set for a makeover with the inauguration of some gorgeous new suites. These will be located on the best stretch of beach in Mancora with very ample and spacious surroundings – something of a tropical paradise. We’ve had a sneak peek of some photos and it looks exquisite. Prototypes are currently being completed, and projected opening is March 2012.

Hotel Nativa – Project Stage  - Expected Opening mid 2012

Casa Moreyra, site for Hotel Nativa (source)

Reputed to be a pet project of Peruvian chef-come-celebrity-superstar Gaston Acurio, this hotel will be housed in the Casa Moreyra in San Isidro, Lima. Bearing a native Peruvian style, Nativa will reportedly be a part of a range of hotels that newfound hotelier Gaston plans to open across Latin America.

Casa Moreyra is a colonial hacienda whose owners previously held much of the land where now sits San Isidro. The home has recently served as a restaurant and we expect the new hotel to be exquisite; we should certainly hope it has some delightful cuisine to boot. The hotel is currently in the “negotiation stage” with architects and consultants although it is known that it will have very few rooms and will incorporate concepts of sustainability and environmental protection, as well as aspects of Peruvian culture both modern and traditional alike. Nativa should be ready for the high season in 2012.

The J.W. Marriott Cusco – Under Construction – Opening delayed until 2012

Mercedes Araoz laying the foundation stone for JW. Marriot Cusco (source)

Despite being passed between 5 different sales reps at the JW Marriott in Lima, none of them could give us any details of their much anticipated new offering being built in Cusco. It was due to be opened in late 2010 but they have supposedly run into problems with permission to complete the property. Our sources in Cusco have told us that opening will be delayed until 2012.

Costing a whopping 40 million dollars, the new hotel is being built in the St. Augustine monastery, and will aim to preserve the few remains that were found in this colonial building such as an old chapel, colonial arches and even original Inca walls. The hotel will reportedly feature 144 rooms, six suites, a bar and restaurant, meeting rooms, amongst other facilities.

If you are interested in any of the above mentioned accommodations or you would like to stay there once they have opened, please do get in touch.

During our visit, the management attested to us that it is their intention to surprise those who stay at the Casitas with a high degree of detail and authenticity in these luxury suites. These Casitas, they told us, would never have been built if they were not going to be built excellently.

And we are delighted to report first-hand that this fervent dedication has certainly shown, to the point that we definitely recommend the Casitas as amongst our highest recommended stays in the Urubamba Valley. Every last adornment from the delicate “Arte Popular” by artist Federico Bauer to the furniture made by a renowned Lima-based joiner Señor Liebana contributes to this air, while ensuring that the suites are not over extravagant and remain firmly grounded in the environs of the valley.

As such, the natural and authentic feel that Sol y Luna has long instilled into their beautiful hotel complex has been respected and enhanced within the Casitas, which are each contained within their own private bungalow. The interior artwork and decoration reflects plants and flowers from Sol y Luna’s extensive garden while also drawing on elements of the Urubamba Valley region such as native plants and local traditions  for inspiration. This in addition to the fact the beauty of the valley is ever pervasive, surrounding the Casitas and visible from their windows and airy terraces.

Aside from integration with the nature and the valley, quality and luxury are the main points to reinforce here. The personalised service and high level of comfort that Sol y Luna’s guests have long enjoyed is retained and indeed improved on with the Casitas. Their hotel was one of the first in the Urubamba Valley, and their excellent service continues here, with a warming fireplace and the most comfortable of beds for example, being touches to help guests relax fully. We thoroughly enjoyed the assortment of fresh fruit and sweets that greeted us upon first entry.

The turn-down service includes igniting the lantern in the garden – a warm and welcoming flame when returning back to the suites after a day of action in the Urubamba Valley. This warmth is enhanced by heated flooring, a delightful toe-warmer for those colder Andean nights (a personal favorite aspect of our travel planner Caitlin who was one of those who stayed there recently.)

Also with respect to their excellent service, there are ample amenities such as safe, minibar, Wireless Internet Connection, flat screen TV’s with Satellite, Hi-fi speaker system and also an ipod station at hand for those who choose this quality Peru hotel. If you don’t have an ipod, Sol y Luna have considerately supplied one for each suite complete with a mix of appropraitely soothing tunes in many different styles ensuring that everyone will have something to listen to should it be so desired.

The spacious and luxurious marble bathrooms, meanwhile, are very relaxing with a bathtub with a view, an invigorating shower and an assortment of shampoos, oils and lotions for the indulgence of guests. Families and larger groups can also book two adjoining suites to make sure there is even more space available.

There are also even more spacious Premium suites on offer – these have three separate rooms splitting up the bedroom, living room and entrance hall and including a walk-in closet, aside from a bathroom with an even more privileged view. They also boast a Jacuzzi and an extra tv and extra fireplace giving even more options for those who want the highest level of comfort.

The Verdict

With their lovely standard bungalows, Sol y Luna have long been one of our firm favourites in the Urubamba Valley, and their new Casitas have only helped to cement our high regard for them. While there are many over-extravagant and exuberant luxury accommodations throughout Peru that do not feel quite at home, these New Suites are tasteful and comfortable and respect their surrounding natural and cultural environment tremendously. For this reason, we do not hesitate to recommend the Casitas of the Sol y Luna to all of those who are searching for peaceful, elegant and comfortable Peru hotels during Peru vacations.

For more details of the restaurants, activities, gorgeous Spa and other facilities that guests at the Sol y Luna suites have privileged access to, please visit our corresponding hotel website or contact us.

Aracari's invited guests enjoy the presentations

Needless to say, Aracari’s presentation went down particularly well; although Marisol wasn’t able to jet off to Asia in person to represent us, she appeared to the audience in video form to describe all of those things that make Aracari a particularly special and unique luxury travel operator. You can view the very same video on our Youtube account.

Aracari's brochures on display at Discovery of the Senses

With the help of some friends, Aracari was able to offer some fabulous awards for the prize draw; Delfin Amazon Cruises, Galapagos Safari Camp and Awasi Hotel in Chile all helped us to provide guests with the opportunity to experience South America in luxurious fashion; all three outfits are renowned for immaculate attention to detail and personal service, the very reason why Aracari collaborates with them. Quite coincidently, two of the prizes were won by invitees of Aracari… congratulations!

Huang Lui, wife of Giam Chin Toon, Ambassador of Singapore to Peru, wins a luxury Amazon cruise aboard the Delfin II

Mr Boris Nordenstrom, also in the Ambassador's party, wins a stay at the Galapagos Safari Camp

Ms Susan Hwee wins a stay at Awasi Hotel in Chile's Atacama desert

We are very pleased that the event was a success and cordially invite all of those at the other side of the Pacific to come and experience an authentic and unique journey to Peru and South America. Marisol will be in Singapore in October, so please get in contact if you would like to get in touch with her during her visit.

Located close to Lima, his property contains perhaps the most remarkable garden in Peru, which has been designed with immaculate attention to detail and that makes for a peaceful afternoon relaxing and dining in the company of a captivating conversationalist and story-teller.

Gardens:

Flowing with colour and a blend of endless shades of green, the garden at Naguib’s is a breathtaking feat. Every last detail has been determined by the visual effect of plants; the smells they create; the effect of the sun, the moon and the seasons; and the placement and allocation of water. The arrangement of plants is so done so that there is colour all-year-round, creating different appearances determined by the leaves and flowers.  This meticulous and careful planning has been implemented by masterful Naguib to create the ideal setting for relaxing, reading, reflecting and, most importantly to him, hosting his friends.

Naguib in his fabulous garden.

The garden is split into three sections: a higher Andean garden at the top end; a Peruvian garden around the house in the middle; and a Colonial Garden at the bottom. These all have their own style, with regard to the respective cultures on which their design is based. The Andean garden, for example, utilizes stone terracing and chiefly native plants while the Peruvian garden has a flat grass lawn that was incorporated due to British influence on Peruvian gentry. The colonial garden, meanwhile, has organized stone walkways separating colourful flower beds, Romanesque statues and makes creative use of fountains and water features.

Naguib reveals his gardens to the Aracari team

Lunch:

Mr. Ciurlizza was notably the first ever male chef to appear on Peruvian television, and the exquisite taste of his fare comes both naturally to him and through his experience. He was proud to tell us that he designs a new dish every week, and the result for his guests is a most unique meal that combines a diverse range of ingredients to encapsulate a rich and sophisticated flavour; this is not least ensured by the fact that the host is hands-on in the kitchen to make sure that his dishes are prepared to a very high standard. This is a sign of his being the most attentive and caring of hosts, making sure that every one of his guests is catered for to the fullest extent.

Simon, Cristina and Caitlin await a delicious lunch

In the build up to the meal, a tasty assortment of Naguib’s own aperitifs are accompanied by house cocktails in the environs of the garden. Guests are then led to the dining area, which is naturally surrounded by plants and has a grand wooden table with comfortable seating. Dinner is accompanied by fine wine of the host’s selection, served in antique Mexican goblets. Afterwards, coffee is enjoyed in whatever part of the garden is most suited, and accompanied by sweets, of course crafted by Mr. Ciurlizza.

Raul relaxes in Naguib's garden before lunch

House and Art Collection:

If enough has not already been said about why a visit to Naguib’s house would be a pleasure to those who travel to Peru with Aracari, then an expose of the protagonist’s house itself is definitely an order. This colonial style building is far from being of pretentious grandeur; on the contrary, nothing but its refined and modest attire would fit in better with the surrounding nature of the gardens.

But it is the contents of this country house that are particularly intriguing: Mr. Ciurlizza holds a small part of his art collection here including some fantastic originals from the likes of Picasso, Salvador Dali and Gauguin. There is also some pre-Columbian ceramics and art from many notable modern Latin American Artists such as Bolivian sculptor Marina Núñez del Prado. Mr. Ciurlizza takes great pride in showing his collection to guests, and recounts many stories of how it has been acquired and compiled.

Logistics:

If you are interested in a visit to this house and garden, then this exclusive opportunity will be available through Aracari beginning in January 2011. Please get in contact with us if your luxury tour of Peru falls in 2011 and onwards and you want to pay a visit.

The journey from Lima will be approximately 35 minutes by private transportation and Naguib will be able to receive groups of up to 12 people; please note that prior arrangement is mandatory so get in touch as soon as possible.

Needless to say, if Aracari guests require an expert eye to help them pick out artwork in Lima, they should contact us to enlist Naguib’s expert assistance during their luxury Lima tour. Please also visit Naguib’s website at www.naguibciurlizza.com to dip into some of his poetry.

Please go to inquirer.net for full article