After a journey through the stunning, flat green landscapes that permeate the region, we arrived at the hacienda. The lodge where we were staying was nestled at over 4000 metres above sea level and situated on a slope overlooking the village of Nequeneque. The spot was blessed with was a fantastic view of the plains stretching off into the distance.

Our base for the next two days, we were delighted to find that the lodge was extremely cosy, and, as could be expected, adorned with soft Alpaca wool at every turn. Our rooms were insulated with Alpaca carpets while blankets made from baby Alpaca were at hand to protect us from the cold Andean nights. There was also a wood burning stove in the corner, with a fresh supply of logs from the nearby copse.

But we weren’t to indulge in the comforts of Mallkini just yet, and after dumping our luggage and a quick lunch we headed out on a tour of the estate.

Covering 3,000 hectares and populated with more than 2,000 Alpacas, the hacienda is the largest private Alpaca centre in Peru. The mission of Mallkini, our guide Moises explained, is to improve the quality of Alpaca fibre, which is achieved  by selecting the finest Alpacas in the Peruvian Andes and working on breeding techniques, nutrition and reproduction. The Alpacas themselves confidently patrol the raw and brash terrain in herds, unphased by climbing steep slopes and grazing on natural vegetation.

As night drew in we were treated to a light-show from the skies: thunderstorms in this area are quite common, and with the orange glow of the setting sun offset by the dark clouds protruding streaks of fork lightning, we were quite pleased to return to the lodge to warm up. And warm up we did, our first dinner consisted of tasty cream of asparagus soup followed by fried trout with vegetables and garlic sauce.

Unfortunately it wasnt to be the best of nights’ sleep as I suffered the worst bout of Altitude sickness I’ve had in 4 years of travelling in the Andes. Thankfully there was oxygen at hand and by breakfast I was (just about) ready to set off on another day of adventure.

Our second day saw us mounting a pair of horses and continuing to explore the extensive grounds of the hacienda. We crossed a river before heading on to higher climbs for yet more spectacular views of the sweeping plains, and joined the Alpacas once again.

After returning to the lodge for lunch, we took a trip to the bottom of a gorge to see a waterfall, and afterwards we visited the laboratories where the Alpacas are sheared. This is also where research on Alpaca genetics and breeding are conducted.

We then returned for one final evening at the lodge, where we were lucky enough to be able to see the stars, the storm clouds from the previous day having cleared. And in the morning, after breakfast, we packed our bags before returning to Juliaca airport to fly back to Lima.

For anyone with any detailed interest in Alpacas, Alpaca fibre or Alpaca breeding, Hacienda Mallkini is an essential visit, with workshops and field trips available. Tying in well with trips to Lake Titicaca, it is also a wonderful experience for anyone interested in adventure, hiking, horseback riding … or those just wanting to disconnect and get away from it all.

Westin Lima

–> Open for business

The Westin, opened in May of 2011, has established itself as one of the finest hotels in Lima. The Aracari Team have since stayed at and toured the hotel and can tell you it is an excellent hotel befitting of the most discerning of guest. The 29 story building – the tallest in Lima – has 301 rooms, all of which are appointed with a swish and modern attire, all of which are spacious, and some of which feature a living room, kitchenette and extra bedroom. We saw some gorgeous suites on the higher floors with views right across the city down to the Pacific Ocean. The restaurant Maras is first class, top Lima chef Rafael Piqueras is behind the menu. The hotel is well situated for access to the airport and the commercial heart of Lima making it particularly well suited for business travellers or those just spending the night here. A nice feature of the bedrooms is a spacious desk for those in town on business.

Hotel Plaza de Armas Cusco

–> Open for business

Hotel Plaza de Armas opened earlier this month in Cusco, on the 5th of April. Located right on the city’s main square, it offers travellers a comfortable base in the heart of the city at a most reasonable rate. The entire property has been remodeled and appointed with tasteful and authentic attire, as well as excellent service.

There are 26 standard rooms and 2 suites, all with private bathroom, LCD television with Cable, direct telephone, wifi and sound proof windows. We have got our hands on some brand new pictures of this hotel, which are fabulous. We have not had the chance to inspect the hotel yet but will keep you posted as soon as we do.

Palacio Nazarenas

–> Due to Open June 15^th

The days are counting down to the opening of one of Peru’s most hotly anticipated hotels, Palacio Nazarenas. The soft opening is set for June the 15^th and we are already taking bookings for this hotel. The hotel will be formally opened on 16^th of September.

During a recent visit to our office the Orient Express team explained that the hotel would differ significantly from Orient-Express’ other flagship hotel in Cusco, Monasterio, in that it had a more modern approach in its service and hospitality. While Monasterio is better suited to those looking for a traditional and historic experience in Cusco, Palacio Nazarenas is more sophisticated in such fine details as the room amenities (each guest will have an iPad loaded with information about Cusco, their choice of newspapers in their own language, for example), reataurant offerings, right down to the style of the staff uniforms.

Each of the hotel’s 55 suites will be appointed exceptionally and exquisitely – they are split between 12 Junior Suites, 31 Suites, 10 Grande Suites, 1 Nazarenas Suite and 1 Palacio Suite. Some of the suites in the lower three categories are quite unique in that the offer different views of the city and different features and quirks – these options are categorized as the “Z collection”.

The restaurant Senzo and the Poolside Bar offer Peruvian cuisine with a modern touch, and use locally sourced ingredients. The SPA experience at Hypnoze, meanwhile, is set to be spectacular with a menu of treatments that can be customized for guests. Amongst these are aromatherapy treatments using locally produced organic essential oils; special baths with flower rituals inspired by Inca ceremonies; a relaxation salon; and a tearoom offering herbal teas.

Those travelling with children will also get special treatment, with books, computer games on the iPad, DVD’s and children’s menu at the restaurants. There is even a special kiddie’s treatment at the SPA.

As such, Palacio Nazerenas will not be competing with Monasterio, rather broadening the options that this world class hotel chain offer in the city. We wrote an article on the hotel back in October which covers some more of the main details and includes photos.

Las Arenas de Mancora

–>  Trial period complete, Due to open mid-September

Mancora’s latest accommodation option has just finished a trail period and will be officially opened in mid-September. When we spoke to representative Yasmine she told us that the property has 22 brand new suites which have access either to the beach or the swimming pool.

The unique aspect of this property is  that it is one of the few places in the world where your suite can have direct access to palm lined stretches of beach, a mere 10 metres away. When the hotel reopens in September it will have a brand new restaurant, bar gym and spa, and possibly a slight tweak to the title. Watch this space!

J.W. Marriot Cusco

–> Due to Open late July

The brand new Marriot property is on the way, due to be opened in late July. The property will have 153 deluxe rooms, a Spa and two onsite museums amongst other features.

The property once housed the San Agustin Convent and Church, which were built in the 16th century. In a lively history the building was bombarded by the troops of Mariscal Gamarra as well as being damaged by the earthquakes of 1650, 1797, 1950 and 1987. The hotel aims to carefully maintain the aspects of the site, as well as reflecting different periods of Cusco’s history, covering the Pre-Inca, Inca, Colonial, Republican and Contemporary periods. This will hopefully give the hotel a quite unique character and provide a unique cultural and historical experience to all it’s guests…

Hotel Barranco

–> Under Construction, projected opening late 2012

The scaffolding around Hotel Barranco is up indicating that the restoration of this historic building is well underway. We’re still hopeful that the hotel will open in late 2012 and the Hotel Barranco team have confirmed this.

Hotel Nativa

–> Pending further news

We reported in February 2011 that Gaston Acurio was going to be opening a hotel in the Casa Moreyra in San Isidro, it now looks as though this Project will not go ahead. We have heard rumours that, instead, his flagship restaurant “Astrid y Gaston” will be relocated to Casa Moreyra though it is not clear when this will be opened. There are also rumours that Hotel Nativa will instead be located in the Sacred Valley. As ever we will keep  you posted on developments.

Last month I ventured with Aracari to the Colca Canyon right in the middle of the rainy season. I was advised against this by many as Arequipa had been dealing with the worst rains in a decade, but I for one love the rain and find it to be very relaxing. I flew to Arequipa and took a shared minivan for a good 4 hours through the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve, a meseta (plateau) at 4,000 metres altitude. We passed through the heart of the vicuña habitat, the wild cousin of the South American camelid family. I only felt any effects from altitude for a good 30 minutes during the trip.

We finally arrived at Colca Lodge, located in the middle of the ancestral farming terraces at 3,250 metres. Out of all of the hotels in the Canyon it has the best views.

The lodge is rustic Andean chic with 45 cabin-type rooms .There are three suites including the bridal suite with its own jacuzzi, as well as double, twin, triple and quadruple rooms. All rooms have heating, hot water (from solar power), mini bar and a terrace, but no TVs which might bore some people like me. There is no wifi in the rooms either. Since I was travelling alone I felt a little lonely in the evenings, wifi would have kept me company.

The onsite restaurant offers ‘Alpandina’ cuisine, combining local Andean produce and alpine techniques, resulting in flavourful and well-balanced meals. Additional facilities include 2 bars, a library, a living room with a large fireplace and a games room.

A particular attraction are 3 private thermal baths which are fed by volcanic hot springs – a perfect place to relax under a star-filled sky after a day of exploring the Colca Valley. The water of the hot springs is rich in lithium, an element that promotes relaxation. However due to the high levels of the Colca river, these pools were completely washed over and guests were offered complimentary access to the Eco-spa pool.

The Eco-Spa was incredible, it offered the well-being I was looking for. There is a steam room and a jacuzzi, which use natural geothermal energy.  I had two Swedish massages done with the sounds of the river flooding in my ears.

Aracari clients enjoying a Peru luxury tour will be accompanied by their own guide and driver and will explore traditional Colca villages, churches and visit the Cruz del Condor. For those with some free time the lodge offers activities (for an additional charge) including horse riding which I did which included trails to the Uyo Uyo ruins.

The occasion is marked by a number of vivid festivals in the Andes that are the hallmark of the syncretism between native traditions and Catholicism.

A spectacular procession took place in Cusco on Holy Monday, El Señor de los Temblores, or “Lord of the Earthquakes” -  as dramatic and spiritual as its name suggests. The procession carries aloft a statue of Christ, the ‘Taytacha’. Blackened by the smoke of thousands of candles over the centuries, the statue is an impressive if somewhat eerie sight.

On the day, the singing of two groups of Quechua singers known as chaynas or jilgueros herald the preparation of the moving of the statue from the cathedral. The rich colour of the crimson ñukchu flower decorates the cross, symbolising the blood of Christ, though also significant plant in indigenous religion. Finally, flanked the singers and surrounded by crowds of people, the procession starts its winding journey through the streets of Cuzco to the Main Square, just as it did for the first time in the 17th century.

Significant processions also take place in the northern Andean town of Huaraz where week-long events culminate with and explosion of fireworks and the release of hundreds of birds; and also notably in the central Andean town of Tarma, where the streets are donned with archways and carpets of colourful flowers for which the region is renowned.

The most raucous events, however, and most famous for Peruvians, are held in Ayacucho. There are huge processions through the city’s streets and these continue from the Friday in Passion Week (before Palm Sunday) right through to Easter Sunday. The processions wind through the city streets from the city’s multiple churches to the Cathedral and bearing venerated figures of the main figures in the scriptural stories, particularly Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.

Happy Easter from the Aracari Team!

Silvia and Victor von Hagen travelling in Peru in the 1950′s

When Silvia sadly passed away in 2007, however, it looked like the charming, smart and much-loved designs were to be a fond memory only.

Not so! When I met with Silvia’s granddaughter Georgia last week she told me the fascinating story of how she has taken her grandmother’s company by the reins. She has now registered the company in both the Peru and the United States and is currently busy launching her own debut collection for Spring and Summer 2012, you can visit the website here.

Left: Georgia Kirkpatrick of Silvania

Right: “Chan Chan blouse” which features in the Spring+Summer 2012 collection

Based in Portland, Oregon, Georgia has made many trips back and forth to Peru to setup the company over the last few years. This has entailed research into every detail, from sourcing the highest quality organic pima cotton to setting up production in Lima.

“The entire process takes place within Peru, with the exception of sales which I manage in the USA” Georgia told me. “At the moment I am only selling in the USA but in the future I want to expand internationally … and of course within Peru itself!”.

Although she had always daydreamed of becoming involved in her grandmother’s company, the prospect of this becoming a reality dawned on Georgia after she completed a placement in the town of Mórrope in the Lambayeque region with the NGO Textile Exchange. She interviewed families who cultivated organic pima cotton and assisted them with work on the fields while assessing the environmental impact of the farms. Through her experience it became clear that these subsistence farmers needed a more stable market for their cotton, and that’s when the idea to relaunch Silvania came to the surface.

Most impressively, Georgia has been stringent in ensuring that the company is ethical and sustainable. 100% organic cotton is used in the garments, and this is sourced from small farming communities such as that in Mórrope who avoid the toxic chemicals used in conventional cotton farming and who receive a higher (and fairer) price for organic cotton. Georgia now travels to Peru regularly to oversee production and ensure that Silvania’s production partners work in healthy conditions while being paid fair wages.

In a similarly authentic manner, the embroidery in the Spring + Summer 2012 collection has been hand-embroidered by a small community in Pucallpa, Peru who belong to the Shipibo tribe of the Peruvian and Brazilian Amazon. Silvania will put aside a percentage of profits for the healthcare and education of such production partners and their families.

The photo shoot below of the debut collection took place in Callao harbour to the north of Lima, an authentic setting for this genuinely Peruvian line of fashion.

Location: Provincial Municipality of Callao
Photographer: Monicka Menesis
Model: Claudia Oliveira
Hair + make up: Claudia Michelle

If you are living on the west coast of the USA and want to get your hands on the debut collection check out the outlets below. And for those living elsewhere you can order direct from Silvania’s website.

Stores carrying the Spring + Summer 2012 Silvania debut collection:
Adorn – Portland, Oregon
Being Green – Nevada City, California
Silkwood – Lake Oswego, Oregon
RGB – San Francisco, California

Perhaps the most spectacular and bewildering natural attraction on the entire South American continent, the salt flats are an unforgettable spectacle. Formed around 40,000 years ago, these eerie deserts of white stretch as far as the eye can see. They are an awe-inspiring natural phenomenon, not least because of the colours that permeate the surrounding lagoons and volcanic landscape, all contributing to the bizarre, other-worldly feel of the place.

This selection of photographs not only highlights the vast extent of salt flats but the number of creative photo options that this “blank canvas” offers. Amongst a variety of themes, Ugalde’s work highlights the immense reserves of lithium underneath the salt lake. Find out more here: http://artpulsemagazine.com/gaston-ugalde-repositioning-rituals/

To plan a trip to the Salt flats, visit our Bolivia luxury tours page for more information on visiting.

Photos by Pedro Chincoa

After some ten minutes of viewing the private art collection of our friend Naguib Ciurlizza at his house in Chacarilla, Lima, it became very clear why many hail this as one of the finest in Peru.

An array of works ranging from original sketches to colourful and powerful contemporary paintings cover his property from floor to ceiling, together forming a unique insight into a range of styles, ideas and movements from the world of art.

As Naguib showed us the various works, which he has devotedly collected over decades, we were indulged by a stream of delicious aperitifs – fresh prawns (shrimp) and quail’s eggs accompanied by creamy dips and complimented by our choice of house cocktail (martini please).

This part of Naguib’s collection is composed of works by such artists as Miro, Wilfredo Lam, Humair, Corneille, Marino Marini, Aristide Maillol and Alexander Calder to name but a few,  as well as host of other significant artists of the 20th century. The collection holds works by modern and contemporary Peruvian artists of the likes of Tilsa Tsuchiya, Grau, Gutierrez, Quintanilla, Tokeshi and Negib.

Aside from paintings, Naguib’s house is adorned by Peruvian colonial furniture and carpets dating from as far back as the 16^th century, while there is also an extensive showing of 18th century Spanish “La Granja” crystal.

Though we felt fortunate not only for the opportunity of seeing these works of the utmost quality; enjoying the company, conversation and entertainment of this captivating host was a privilege in itself. Afterwards – as we retreated to the calmness of the garden for further cocktails and dessert – Naguib told us anecdotes about society in Lima; gave insight into political and economic life; told first hand stories about Peru’s vibrant modern history; even for those of us who have spent years in the country, the conversation kept us in rapt, illuminating society in Lima and Peru to a fascinating degree.

“For V.I.P’s Only”, as we are titling this brand new Aracari experience, will be a very desirable offering for those of our guests who opt to spend time in Lima. It is also possible to organize lunch and dinner here too.

In addition, we are also developing an Art tour of Lima with Naguib, a day visiting the most important art galleries and museums in the city; Naguib’s expertise in Peruvian art makes him the ideal specialist to lead this tour. Please contact us for more details.

The Question

How many different types of dance are on display at this month’s Fiesta de la Candelaria?

The Answer

One of the largest festivals in South America, there are over 200 styles of dance on display at this months Virgen de la Candelaria festival, held annually in the first two weeks of February.

Tens of thousands of dancers and musicians from the various regions of the Peruvian Altiplano descend upon the stadium of the city of Puno on Lake Titicaca to  take part in competitions. The sheer scale of the proceedings makes the festival comparable to the Carnavals of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and Oruro in Bolivia.

The styles of dancing are extremely diverse and original reflecting the deep folkloric traditions held by Quechua and Aymara cultures in the region. Participators don costumes of incredible colour and decoration, making this a quite spectacular scene for any visitor.

For more information about this year’s event visit the official website (in Spanish) Virgen de la Candelaria Puno. Also check out our information on Peru festivals.

The Question:

To which Peruvian cocktail is tomorrow dedicated?

The Answer:

Tomorrow, the first saturday in February, is officially National Pisco Sour Day!

Made from limes, ice, egg white, sugar syrup and Pisco, Peruvians hold an immense deal of pride for this cocktail, to the extent that it is considered to be Peru’s National Drink.

And for good reason. The refreshing cocktail is both quite unique and very sophisticated: the bitter tang of fresh lime is complimented wonderfully by the sweetness of the syrup and strength of the Pisco, all blended together in an impossibly smooth and frothy texture which goes down like a treat before lingering on the palette.

Notable buzz surrounds the event, with a number of Pisco Sour festivals set for tomorrow in key plazas and neighbourhoods across the city, including the Plaza de Armas, with many revelers expected to attend.

Pisco: Pride of Peru

In a sign of the deep appreciation that Peruvians have for Pisco Sour, a recent advertising campaign aimed at the international market has seen success in pitting the drink against other famous spirits from across the world – namely whisky, tequila and vodka – in quite humorous fashion:

And this very morning, Top chef Gaston Acurio made a special tribute to Pisco Sour on his hugely popular facebook page to a rapturous reception:

Which can be roughly translated as:

“Pisco Sour, a Peruvian creation made with Peruvian products on the verge of becoming a global product. One step from being found not only in Peruvian restaurants but in all bars, restaurants and hotels in the world. A little piece of the heart of Peru in the most sophisticated locations in the world. An example of this New Peru, renovated, unique, magic, ideas that come direct from Peruvian identity, and that the world buys and incorporates into their lives. For this, and because it strengthens our confidence in ourselves, today Peru celebrates with a Pisco Sour in hand. Congratulations to Pisco producers, lime farmers and the barmen who make the drink of the Peruvian flag.”

Much like Pisco: powerful stuff. On that note I’m going for a Pisco Sour… if you want to make your own look here,  and if you’re coming to Peru then ask us about our Pisco tasting tour “In Good Spirit”, one of our many Peruvian Cuisine Trips … ¡Salud!

The Question:

Where in Bolivia is a Baroque Music Festival held every two years?

The Answer:

Every two years there is a Baroque Music Festival held at the Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos in south eastern Bolivia. The festival is a fantastic way to experience the diverse and multilingual culture of the region, with the recital of the works of a variety of classic composers such as Vivaldi, Handel, Bach and Purcell (to name but a few) as well as original compositions by local people in a remote part of the Bolivian rainforest.

The festival was first conceived of after several thousand original sheets of music dating from the 17th and 18th centuries were discovered in the 1970′s during the restoration of the six missions churches at Chiquitos and Moxos. Composed by both European and indigenous composers alike, the works embodied a precious cultural treasure, evidence of the dedication to musical tradition in these fabulously adorned mission churches. The missions were subsequently recognised by UNESCO as “monuments of the cultural heritage of mankind” in 1990.

The idea behind the Baroque Music Festival is to preserve and promote the unique musical tradition of this part of Bolivia. Local people have had an outstanding ability to assimilate complex European musical instruments and scores, showcasing a unique musical revival taking place in one of the world’s least developed regions. And the fascinating concept of live classical music being played in this beautiful and diverse tract of nature is a joyous and glorious occasion, a real treat for those travellers who make the effort to attend.

2012’s festival, the ninth edition, will take place between the 26th of April and the 6th of May. Anybody interested in visiting should contact us to plan their itinerary, as Bolivia Travel Specialists we can not only take you to Santa Cruz in comfort and style but combine your visit with other attractions such as Lake Titicaca and the spectacular Salar de Uyuni salt flats.