Peru navy history I’d read about the famous Yavari and the fascinating story of the Victorian steamship that journeyed from the shipyards of London all the way to the shores of Lake Titicaca. But I finally had the opportunity to visit the ship myself and can now add an exciting update to the story. Categorised by the National Historic Ships Committee of Great Britain as being in the same league as the Cutty Sark (famous British clipper ship and top tourist attraction in London), the Yavari is the oldest single propeller-driven iron ship operating in the world today. However, what makes her remarkable is not just her existence in such illustrious company, but the journey she made to her home high in the Peruvian Andes. If you don’t know the story, which involved the ship being disassembled into thousands of pieces and carried over the mountains by pack mule, read about it in our previous blog. Now let’s fast forward to the present day. For several years the Yavari has been stationary, moored at the edge of Puno, the Peruvian city on the shores of Lake Titicaca, at 3,810m (12,500 ft) above sea level. Yavari has been welcoming visitors aboard to walk her decks and browse the onboard museum - a fitting tribute to her extraordinary history of service, and salvage. On a recent trip to Lake Titicaca, I went to visit the Yavari. Moored outside Puno, not far from the famous Uros Islands, I boarded a small dingy which took me to the great vessel. I’m pleased to report back that the iconic vessel is now on the move again. After some refurbishments to meet international safety standards, a good lick of paint and much needed work on the engine, she’s doing what she was destined to do –
Peru navy history I’d read about the famous Yavari and the fascinating story of the Victorian steamship that journeyed from the shipyards of London all the way to the shores of Lake Titicaca. But I finally had the opportunity to visit the ship myself and can now add an exciting…
The oasis of Ica, some 300km south of Lima, is home to Peru’s wine and pisco-producing vineyards. There, tucked amidst rows of grapes, sits the sprawling bright-pink Hacienda Tacama, a standout winery in the region, which lays claim to being both the oldest winery in South America and Peru’s largest. Having undergone extensive renovations in 2016, I headed to the sand-dune surrounded valley to test out the updated tour of Hacienda Tacama and to learn about and sample some of Peru’s best wines and pisco - a white grape brandy and the much-loved national spirit. Hacienda Tacama offering heaps of history A long driveway greeted us as we entered through the imposing estate walls. The property extends over 250 hectares in an area that has long been used for cultivation - the Incas planted coca leaves here long before the Spanish started growing grapes. The vineyard at Hacienda Tacama was created in the 16th century, thus eliminating the need to import communion wine from Europe for the recently established religious orders. Then in the 18th century pisco production began in the region. We were quite happy to sample both products of the vine – enjoying creative pisco cocktails and wine paired with our lunch. We ate on the patio of the onsite restaurant Tambo – a new addition to the property with an otherwise long history and commitment to preserving tradition. 1889 was the year the Olaechea family purchased Tacama from the Order of St. Augustine, and it has remained in the same family, producing wine and pisco, to this day. Tacama Horses at Hacienda Tacama While we ate lunch, we enjoyed a traditional horse show on the green grounds in front of us. The first owner of the vineyard was an equestrian fan and brought over Arabian horses from
The oasis of Ica, some 300km south of Lima, is home to Peru’s wine and pisco-producing vineyards. There, tucked amidst rows of grapes, sits the sprawling bright-pink Hacienda Tacama, a standout winery in the region, which lays claim to being both the oldest winery in South America and Peru’s largest….
Peru with flavour Peruvian food is now well established on the world’s gastronomic map. With Michelin-starred restaurants in Lima and cities across the world, more people are getting to know the culinary delights of Peru. While it’s great to sample food from a distant country in your own city, nothing beats culinary travel -getting to know a country through your taste buds. In this culinary blog series, we’ll introduce you to some of Peru’s iconic dishes that will have you booking a flight and a table for as soon as you land! Causa - so much more than mashed potato The potato. Most people know that this humble root hails from Peru. The country boasts nearly 3,000 varieties in all shapes, sizes and subtle flavour distinctions, so it’s not surprising that potato is a staple of Peruvian cuisine, and used in many dishes. When you think of mashed potatoes, you often think of a dish that’s heavy, starchy and certainly served hot. So encountering causa is a surprise for all your senses. First of all, who would have known that mashed potatoes can be so aesthetically pleasing! Causa features tuna or chicken, layered with silky smooth mashed potato and a vegetable layer, often avocado. The colourful layers are often topped with drizzles of sauces, and other vibrant garnishes. Taking a taste leads to more surprises. Causa is served cold, and the layers are flavoured with delicate hints of lime and aji amarillo - the delightfully flavoursome orange chilli pepper that is ubiquitous to Peruvian cuisine. The result is light, refreshingly lifting flavours. Nothing of the heaviness or blandness you might expect from mashed potatoes. A bite that cuts through the layers, results in an explosion of flavours in your mouth. Causa is a Limeño classic, enjoyed especially in the summer, often as a
Peru with flavour Peruvian food is now well established on the world’s gastronomic map. With Michelin-starred restaurants in Lima and cities across the world, more people are getting to know the culinary delights of Peru. While it’s great to sample food from a distant country in your own city, nothing…
Corpus Christi Cusco Festival Corpus Christi, a Catholic holiday celebrated worldwide, is very distinct in Cusco. It’s the city’s most important religious festival and a public holiday in Cusco, which is celebrated with fervor. It is also the occasion that most exemplifies the synergy between Catholicism and traditional Andean beliefs and customs. The main procession takes place with 15 adorned statues each representing a different parish church. The procession is followed by thousands of people, carrying flowers and offerings. For more details on the nature of the festival, check out our previous blog. If you’re in Cusco during Corpus Christi this year, here are our 5 top tips to get the most out of the experience: Corpus Christi in Cuzco is not a spectacle created for tourists, but an important religious celebration for Cuzqueños. Because of this, we recommend enjoying the celebrations accompanied by a local guide who can explain the significance behind the pageantry which is otherwise hard to follow, and take you to the best spots to view the procession (Aracari can arrange this as part of your trip). With thousands of people lining the routes of the procession, arrange a booking (in advance) at a restaurant or bar with a balcony overlooking the route – you’ll get a great view, especially for snapping photos, and a comfortable seat to take it all in. There are many on the Plaza de Armas. If you'd like to be part of the action, head down into to Plaza de Armas - Cuzco's main square is not cordoned off as it is for other festivals like Inti Raymi, meaning you can wonder around, including walking along the façacde of the Cathedral. Be warned that because of crowds, it can take you half an hour to get from one side of the small square to the other.
Corpus Christi Cusco Festival Corpus Christi, a Catholic holiday celebrated worldwide, is very distinct in Cusco. It’s the city’s most important religious festival and a public holiday in Cusco, which is celebrated with fervor. It is also the occasion that most exemplifies the synergy between Catholicism and traditional Andean beliefs…
“I have learned that each and every piece of cloth embodies the spirit, skill, and personal history of an individual weaver... It ties together with an endless thread the emotional life of my people.” ― Nilda Callanaupa Alvarez, Aracari specialist and Peruvian author of ‘Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands: Dreaming Patterns, Weaving Memories’ Go to Aracari Shop Everywhere you go in Peru, you’ll see textiles on sale. The markets are adorned with the vibrant warm hues of traditional blankets, ponchos, and the famous chullo hats (read our blog here), woven with care from the finest alpaca wool. A perfect memento from your trip, and guaranteed to keep you warm through a North American or European winter. With the growing popularity of their handiwork, artisans and textile businesses have extended their production beyond the traditional garments to appeal to the tastes of international tourists, and now table cloths, place mats, belts and bags are all available with the iconic patterns of the Andes. Even smaller trinkets and souvenirs like pens and fridge magnets are decked out in traditional patterns. Pre-Inca beginnings Peru is actually the country with the longest tradition of textile production, going back over 10,000 years, and predating pottery. The Chavin civilisation is generally credited with inventing the backstrap loom and many of the weaving techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. What began as a simple process of spinning fibers and moving them across nets and cords has developed into a highly technical and skilled craft. Following the Chavin, the coastal Paracas and Nazca cultures made beautiful and intricate embroideries and tapestries. With the dry desert conditions, many of these were preserved in underground tombs, giving us many clues to understand their way of life, in the absence of any written records. The warmongering Wari
“I have learned that each and every piece of cloth embodies the spirit, skill, and personal history of an individual weaver… It ties together with an endless thread the emotional life of my people.” ― Nilda Callanaupa Alvarez, Aracari specialist and Peruvian author of ‘Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands: Dreaming…
Blog post update in 2016: Autor Estancia has been renamed Autor II, and is the sister property to Autor I,also located in Miraflores. The best luxury hotels in Peru Nestled on a quiet street in the upscale neighbourhood of Miraflores, Autor Estancia, opened in April 2016, is perfectly located near to Avenida La Mar, with its famous cevicherias and cafes, and a 7-minute walk to one of the best surf spots in the capital. Autor Estancia is a stylish bed and breakfast spread across three floors of a former home. The property offers 6 rooms comprised of 1 King room (which can be split into a twin), Queens and Singles. Some have private balconies, open onto the garden courtyard or onto the communal roof terrace with a Jacuzzi. All rooms are slightly different reflecting the features of a renovated house, rather than purpose-built hotel, which adds to home-away-from-home charm. All feature modern en-suite bathrooms and the King room features a beautiful free-standing bath tub in the main bedroom in addition to the attached shower room. Built as a house and then used as a print shop, the hotel’s décor is modern with clean lines and neutral tones but with touches of nostalgia to the building and Lima’s past. In the King room you can sit at a writing desk and discover the old-fashioned type-writer hidden away, while using their super-fast broadband: the epitome of old meets new. There are other quirky features to come across during your stay, like the front desk - a baker’s display cabinet given a new life. The twisting staircase lit by a skylight pays homage to surfing legends that decorate the wall as you descend. The corridor walls and communal spaces are tastefully adorned with photography by Sergio Fernandez and vibrant paintings by Sherman Meléndez, both Peruvians renowned for
Blog post update in 2016: Autor Estancia has been renamed Autor II, and is the sister property to Autor I,also located in Miraflores. The best luxury hotels in Peru Nestled on a quiet street in the upscale neighbourhood of Miraflores, Autor Estancia, opened in April 2016, is perfectly located near to Avenida…
